Father Louis Hennepin's exploration of the upper Mississippi River in the late 1600's took him by canoe through a lake, which he called "Lac Des Pleus," translated as Lake of Tears. Another explorer, Charlevoix, after finding the lake sometime later named it "Lac de bon Secours," Lake of Good Help. The two names lead one to think the explorers had discovered two different lakes. For those who spend much time on what is now known as Lake Pepin, however, both names make perfect sense.

On calm days, a relaxing boat cruise on the 22-mile long, 3-mile wide lake south of Red Wing, minnesota, is soothing to one's soul. The sun glints on the lake like thousands of diamonds spread across the water. Sailboats leisurely tack from shore to shore while fishing boats are followed by squawking seagulls hopeful for a snack. Those lucky enough to be on the lake enjoy the bounty she provides in whatever form they need.

On stormy days, however, the lake becomes a punishing mass of watery spikes. The wind that previously carried sailboats gently to the opposite shore turns angry. Such was the day on July 16, 1890, when a tourist-laden steamboat was caught in a sudden summer storm on Lake Pepin and carried 98 persons to their watery graves.

H2ohhhhh

The lake is a boating mecca for both power and sail boats that can co-exist peacefully due to the large expanse of water. Sailboats take full advantage of the steady wind currents and cruise leisurely before changing direction. Powerboats tie up together, side by side, at many locations on the lake without fear of getting in the way of barges and tows that make the river and lake their mode of transportation. On the lake's north end, a bay known as Long Point has a deep bay and beach area that even large boats can get to without fear of damaging their props. On the south end of the lake, boaters enjoy the area south of Pepin City, Wisconsin for rafting. Tow captains enjoy the safety of having such a large expanse of water before resuming their tight course on the narrows of the Mississippi River at both ends of the lake.

Rolling bluffs along both shorelines make for a majestic site all year long, with the deep emerald greens of summer foliage which give way in autumn to brilliant hues of crimson, gold and magenta. Eagles can be seen soaring around the bluffs. Flanked by the Minnesota and Wisconsin sandstone bluffs, both shorelines flame with brilliant color in autumn, a welcome treat before November rains gives way to December snow.

A Lake That Provides

Many Lake Pepin area residents make their living from the lake itself. Bill Lawson was born and raised in the small Wisconsin town of Pepin for all of his 83 years. "I used to be a commercial fisherman when I wasn't on the towboats," says Lawson. "There was a fish market here then. Half the people here at one time were commercial fishermen." On one of his outings around 1953 his boat capsized and he was rescued by a passing towboat. Lawson was impressed with his rescuer and quit fishing to become a commercial towboat captain. His towboat run between St. Paul and Dubuque provided ample opportunity to become familiar with the route. "Lake Pepin is an easy run...you don't have to watch much for buoys." Retired for a number of years now, Lawson still has an interest in the towboats and when he doesn't recognize one on the lake, turns to the internet for identification.

Other residents make their living along the lake's shores. Dave Smith, and his wife Jane, moved their young family to Pepin from LaCrosse, Wisconsin. "All my life, I've been on the lake, since I was a month old. My family had a cottage here; property that's been in the family since 1842," says Smith. He had fallen in love with the lake at an early age and knew that someday he'd raise his family on it. He was a teacher and Jane a school psychologist, so both were able to find work in the small town of Pepin. They started Smith Brothers Landing, named after their three sons. "We had three younger boys and bought the shop thinking one day that the property would develop. We got there before the kids were in high school because it's easier to move younger kids," says Smith. The shop, started as a bait shop, has since turned into a garden store with decorative metalwork including trellises, birdhouses, and perennials.

Visitor Turned Resident

Joanne Klees was once a regular visitor to the Lake Pepin area and frequently brought her two young children to Hok-Si-La campground and park for hiking and time on the beach. The 252-acre park located on the north end of Lake City, is a municipal park and campground which offers a more natural type of camping environment. Cars are allowed at campsites only to load and unload camping gear and equipment, and are required to park at a separate parking area away from the natural view for campers. Joanne strived to expose her children to as much of the outdoor environment as possible. The kids became well acquainted with the park and on one trip asked their mom who lived at the house on the grounds. She explained that it was the park manager's home and the kids jokingly decided that one day their mother would work there so that they could live there year-round. When Joanne saw an ad in the local paper for the park manager position, she knew it was fate and she sent in her application. Her former jobs had always been in an outdoor-type of setting and the park manager position was exactly what she wanted and where she wanted it. "There were 12 applicants interviewed. When it was down to me and another person, then I told the kids," Klees laughs.

Klees has been the park manager now for over five years but still marvels at the beauty of the lake. "When you're just visiting a place you miss a lot. Living here you notice all the little things. You notice when a tree goes down, where the sun sets when it shifts seasonally, when the water goes up or down."

Her favorite season on the lake is winter. "I love the color and the sound of the ice on the lake. It's quiet in the winter so you can hear those sounds." Klees loves the serenity of the lake, especially when she can share it with others. "To celebrate Lake Pepin is to bring people down to the lake, share it with them, and help them to understand what everyone can do for and on and with the lake."

Lake Pepin is important to those who live on or near her shores. Like the people who enjoy her, Lake Pepin has many personalities, which in many ways is a large part of her beauty, her charisma, her charm. Regular visitors like myself may not have seen or know all the sides to Lake Pepin, but we know they exist and appreciate people like Joanne Klees who share the lake with us. For that, we are grateful.

Eats and Treats

The Harbor View Café, Pepin, WI; www.harborviewpepin.com, 715-442-3893. Smoke-free fine dining restaurant whose motto of "the Best from Scratch" ensures a daily changing menu. Reservations are not accepted, however, waiting patiently at the bar or outside on the sidewalk with a beverage while chatting with other patrons is not only encouraged, but part of the memorable dining experience.

The Pickle Factory, Pepin, WI; www.pepinpicklefactory.com, 715-442-4400. casual dining atmosphere with a menu to suit all ages and tastes.

Chickadee Cottage Tea Room and Restaurant, Lake City, MN; 651-345-5155. a non-smoking restaurant in an early 1900's home with a homemade menu. the Sunday family-style breakfast alone is worth the trip.

Papa Tronnio's Pizza, Lake City, MN; 651-345-3540. Overlooks the Lake city Marina on Lake Pepin. Quite simply the best pizza in town, with friendly service and a convenient location.

Lake Pepin at a glance

• 22 miles long, 3 miles wide at widest point; over 25,000 acres; maximum depth 61 feet
• Part of the Mississippi River south of Red Wing; borders Minnesota and Wisconsin
• Fish: bluegill, lake sturgeon, northern pike, walleye, white bass, sauger, crappie, largemouth bass
• Public boat access: many along Hwy. 61 in Minnesota and Hwy. 63 in Wisconsin

Quick Clicks

Lake City, Minnesota Tourism Bureau
www.lakecity.org/index.html

Pepin, Wisconsin
www.pepinwisconsin.com/index.htm  

Maiden Rock, Wisconsin
www.maidenrock.org

Stockholm, Wisconsin
www.stockholmwisconsin.com

By Liz Pasch