What kind of garden do you want this year?

Want to try gardening but you're not sure where to start? Figure out what you like and start small. Try adding a rose garden, a vegetable garden, a shade garden, a butterfly garden, a rock garden, a cutting garden, or a kitchen garden.

Do you want to fix a yard problem? Do you need more privacy? Do you want to open a view? Do you have steep slopes you are tired of mowing, or do you want a green and weed-free lawn? Do you have a drainage problem with standing water?

Do you want to minimize the amount of maintenance? Tired of weeding, cutting grass, and watering? If gardening and yard maintenance is a chore, maybe you have too much to maintain.

Do you want to be outside enjoying your yard more? Try adding a play area for the kids, a patio, a gazebo, a fire pit, or just some furniture in a spot to relax.

That's the thing about gardens and outdoor spaces. It's always something. Think of it as therapy for your mind and exercise for your body. Figuring out what you want is sometimes the hardest part of having a yard you enjoy. Begin by looking at your yard from all different angles and deciding what you need and what you like. Take a walk in and around your neighborhood, check out books at the library, and go online collecting ideas that will work in your area.

An idea is what you want; a plan is how to do it. No matter what the scope of work, a scaled drawing of your project is necessary. Create a scale drawing of your yard using graph paper with 1/2" grid. Each square of the graph paper represents 1 foot of your yard. Begin by placing your house and other structures you want to keep, like driveways, existing trees and plants. The more detail you add the more accurate it will be. Start sketching what you'd like to accomplish, keeping in mind that time and money may limit your end result. Your plan is a process and you can come up with a strategy to break it into projects that are not overwhelming. Prioritize the projects and soon you will have achieved the plan you wanted. Planning is tedious and a lot of work, but it is the key to getting what you want.

Need help?

If this seems overwhelming, there is help available. There are people who are trained to help you plan, design, install and maintain, but sometimes it is difficult to figure out who to call. The lines between many of these disciplines are blurred and expertise varies from person to person within each category, but describing the different roles in broad, general terms may help you find the right person to help you.

Master Gardener:

A master gardener has a horticulture background and in Minnesota has completed the horticulture program through the University Extension Service with 48 hours of classroom instruction. They work closely with the Extension Service and are very educated in lawn care, tree and shrub care, annuals, perennials, bulbs, pest and weed control, soil science, plant nutrition, fruit and vegetable cultivation, and other related topics. Master gardeners volunteer their time and share information from the University Extension Program. You can find out more about master gardeners, or ask them a question about your garden by contacting the web site, www.extension.umn.edu or by calling 612.624.4771 or 888.624.4771.

Landscape Contractor:

The primary focus of this profession is construction and installation of residential and commercial landscapes. They are often trained in plant identification, turf grass management, landscape construction, decks, garden pools, waterfalls, retaining walls, patios, walks, outdoor lighting, plants and lawns. Contractors may have backgrounds in landscape design or landscape architecture.

Landscape Designer:

A landscape designer works primarily with residential plans that include plant materials and gardens, decks, patios, driveways, pools and other amenities that enhance a landscape. They often are trained in design, plant and landscape maintenance, and landscape construction, and are knowledgeable about the range of options and possibilities. The training for this profession varies widely.

Landscape Architect:

Landscape architects are often confused with landscape designers, because in some cases the work they do overlaps. Landscape architects have a bachelors or masters degree in landscape architecture, several years of practical experience and successful completion of a state licensing exam. Training includes design, plant materials, grading and drainage, and other related studies that allow them to interact with architects, engineers, environmental disciplines and contractors in collaborative efforts. Some landscape architects work on residential designs, but other projects may include malls, parks, playgrounds, housing subdivisions, and commercial and industrial sites.

Landscape Nureries:

The staff of a landscape nursery may include any or all of the describe professions, you just need to ask. They are in the business of selling plant materials and will focus primarily on designing and installing trees, shrubs and other plants. If you are looking just for a planting plan, they often provide a design service free or at a discount if you buy the plant materials from them.

Want spring to come a little earlier? Try planting bulbs indoors; it's easier than you think. There are lots of flowering bulbs to choose from. If you are not sure, start with bulbs that don't require chilling and work up. You'll find they are all easy once you know how.

There are two tricks. The first is to time your planting so the bulbs bloom when you want them to. The second is to keep them cool long enough so strong roots develop that can support healthy leaves and flowers.

Timing

Timing blooms when you want them is easy if you use the timetable for forcing bulbs.

Materials you will need:

1. A clean bowl or pot
2. Rocks, packing peanuts or broken pottery pieces (to be placed at the bottom of your pot, if the pot does not have drainage holes)
3. Potting soil
4. Bulbs
5. Shovel or scoop
6. Gloves (to save your hands)

Planting

Select the right pot for your bulb. Allow at least 2 inches of dirt under the bulb and choose a pot big enough for the tip of the bulb to be even with the rim of the pot once it is planted.

If your pot does not have a drainage hole, place "ballast" in the bottom so the new roots will not become water logged.

Place dirt in the pot allowing at least 2" of dirt under the bulb.

Gently place the bulb on the soil with the pointed end facing up. Feel free to place as many bulbs in the pot as it will hold without the bulbs touching.

Bulbs are often showier in larger numbers. Don't be afraid to crowd a pot with bulbs, it will be a full, striking display. A general rule of thumb is to plant in odd numbers. The smaller the pot and the fewer number of bulbs the more important this will be.

Add more soil and pack it around the bulbs. Leave the tips exposed.

Water the soil well for it to settle around the bulbs. Be careful not to over water and drown the bulbs. Keep the soil moist at all times.

Label the pots with the planting date, the variety of bulbs, and the date you will bring it into the light and "force" them to bloom.

Chilling

The purpose of chilling is to grow roots that are strong enough to support healthy foliage and blossoms.

Place the container in a cold dark area. An ideal temperature for bulbs is between 41 and 45 degrees F. An unheated basement, porch or garage is a possibility, as well as an old refrigerator, depending on your circumstances.

If the room is the right temperature, but it is very bright, you can cover the pot with a box.

Check on your pots periodically. Keep the soil moist. If you have a thermometer you will be able to verify if the temperature is correct. If you don't have a thermometer, the temperature is too warm if the bulbs are growing tops prematurely. If the temperature is too cold, the roots will not grow.

Forcing Blooms

Once the bulbs are rooted, it is time to force, or coax, the plant into growing foliage and blossoms. This is done by changing the temperature and light conditions.

When the specified time has elapsed for chilling bring your plant into a location where there is indirect light and temperatures between 55-65 degrees F.

Keep the soil moist.

When the shoots reach a height between 4-6 inches, gradually move the pots to a sunny location. A south or west windowsill with temperatures between 68-72 degrees F. will be ideal.

To make your blooms, or early spring, last longer, move the pot out of direct sunlight when you can see color in the buds.

Feeling like you want to see some fresh green and don't have the time or energy to force bulbs? There is nothing that signals the arrival of spring faster than watching the grass green up and the sound of the lawnmower. It's so easy and it doesn't take much time, money or even planning.

Find a clean pot and fill it with dirt. Scatter grass seeds on top and water gently. Set the pot in your home where it will receive good light and keep the top 1/2" of soil damp. In 7-10 days you will begin to see grass seedlings and in a few weeks you will have lush green grass.

By Barb Cross