Winter Drafts
The Stillness of Winter
Stories of Lake Champlain's residents.
The islands of Lake Champlain are home to approximately 6,000 year-round residents, increasing by as many as 3,000 in the summer. But what does life on the lake entail when Old Man Winter comes calling?
Why the Water?
A contractor by trade, Barclay Morris was rebuilding a camp in October of 1988 on the east shore of Grand Isle, Vermont, when the house next door went on the market. Though it took a little persuasion to get his wife to agree, he jumped at the chance for a permanent residence on the pristine Lake Champlain. "The best sales job I ever did was convincing Ellen to move to the water," he laughs.
The splendor of the lake brought them to Grand Isle County, but it is the sense of community that keeps them here. With winters that sometimes stretch from October to May, a certain tenacity exists in the year-round residents. "You can count on two things in the winter," he says, "one, there will be days when it's thirty below and the truck won't start and, two, there will be neighbors to help you through it." Indeed, when Barclay's dad passed away in January one year, the Morris family returned home to find a pot of stew and a ploughed driveway compliments of their neighbors. Though it takes extra effort to be neighborly during the winter in these islands, that is exactly what this community extends.
To Barclay and Ellen, winter on the lake isn't something to be endured, but embraced. "One night our former neighbors called us around midnight to tell us we better come outside and look at the stars," he says. Though the neighbors had debated whether or not the they would be more upset about being awakened or missing the spectacular night sky, they took their chances and called the couple. "As we brought out the blankets and set up our chairs to watch the stars against the black sky, I assured them they made the right choice-we would have been irritated had they let us miss it." Occasionally, Barclay adds, you can even see the Northern Lights.
Wildlife, Rugged Life
Since they moved here during autumn, initiation to winter on the water was almost immediate. "That first winter both the pipes and the septic froze as well as the engine on the car," he says, "but over the years I have figured out the essentials." "Besides," he adds, "I fell in love with the view and convinced my wife that it was pretty enough to put up with a few inconveniences."
Even during the severe winters, the island is alive with wildlife. "It doesn't take long for the foxes to figure out that the ice fishermen leave behind a tasty supper on the frozen lake when they clean their fish," says Barclay, adding that for several seasons the couple was able to observe a female fox raising her kits under the garage. In addition to the foxes, other year-round wildlife includes great horned owl, wild turkey, deer, and of course, moose.
Barclay finds that the blustery weather constantly presents him with the biggest challenge of winter lake life. "The wind off the lake causes drifts several feet high which usually land right across the driveway," he says, "and it never stops blowing, which keeps you fighting the constant chill." The motto in Vermont is dress like an onion-layers and layers of clothing that leave you barely able to move.
Yet despite the obstacles, the Morris family looks forward to the winter season on the water. "When we left the city to escape the noise of the screaming sirens, we could not have anticipated the serenity we got in exchange; except for the snowmobiles, it is dead quiet out there on the lake."
The stillness of winter only enhances the natural beauty of Lake Champlain. "Even though it took a while for my wife to get accustomed to lake life, she would never leave now. We are both here to stay-summer and winter."
Winter Traditions
For Robert and Pamela Perkins, owners of The Island Flower Farm in Grand Isle, Vermont, the last dozen summers have been buzzing with business. But what does a flower farmer do when the buds are sleeping under layers of snow?
"Bookkeeping," Pamela laughs. "In fact, I don't let myself order anything for spring until I catch up on my accounting."
Though weddings are sparse in the winter months, she stays busy consulting, thumbing through garden catalogs conjuring up a vision for spring and catching up on "good books, good food and good friends."
The Perkins live in what is called the "gut" of the lake: the bay between the outer and inner lake. Though some older maps refer to it as Witherall's Bay, the name is seldom used. Once the lake freezes over with five or six inches of ice, a flurry of lakefront activities begins, from ice fishing and snow-shoeing, to kids popping wheelies on motor scooters. "There's a lot going on out there," she says, adding that occasionally you might spot an eagle doing some ice fishing of his own.
Even when the snow piles up, however, community life doesn't stop. Activities such as winter concerts, church suppers, an ice fishing derby and a tree lighting ceremony all create a close knit community that makes an extra endeavor to bring folks together during winter's deep freeze.
Changes and Challenges
When you live on an island like Grand Isle for thirty years, you're bound to see some changes. The most noticeable difference, says Pamela, is the increase in population. "We used to be more isolated but this is not necessarily a negative. In fact, some of the new folks have the time and money to put into the community and they are quite active. I would even say that the growth has increased my sense of community, and that's always a good thing."
And what's the biggest challenge of winter on the lake? For some, the isolation is more confining than even the severe weather, says Pamela, since many residents go south for the winter. When the high is zero, as is often the case in January, and the parking lots become choked with snow, just getting around can be difficult.
"It doesn't bother me, but for the elderly population here getting to their doctors' appointments and such can be difficult since it is such a long commute," she says, adding that her own winter commute is 35 minutes where she works part time for the Vermont State Nurse's Association in South Burlington. Pamela concluded long ago that the island's rugged beauty coupled with winter's solitude outweighs the disadvantage of a little distance.
Adding to the sense of community is the volunteerism of Grand Isle County. "I have always valued the groups like the Grand Isle/North Hero Rescue Squad and the Ladies' Auxiliary," she says. Pamela is also a member of the farmer's market which meets during the winter months to do the planning for the next season. "A garden never really stops," she says, "even if there is two feet of snow on the ground."
For Pamela Perkins, winter doesn't just bring a change of season, but a change of lifestyle as well. She welcomes the season as a time where slowing down is allowed.
"I believe that certain people are drawn to water-even if it is frozen half the year," she says. "Possibly because of the peacefulness or the beauty, I'm not sure, but we will definitely continue to live in Grand Isle on the lake as long as possible."
Some Facts about Lake Champlain
Amount of shoreline: 587 miles
Drinking water use: Approximately 200,000 depend on Lake Champlain for drinking water. Approximately 4,149 draw water directly from Lake Champlain for individual use. There are 99 public water systems drawing water from Lake Champlain.
Average lake freeze date: The average lake freeze date (across the widest part) is February 12th. However, the lake is still freezing less frequently across its widest part than it has in the past. For example, it only froze during three winters between 1990-2000.
Number of islands in lake: 70 islands
Lake length: 120 miles. Lake Champlain flows from Whitehall, New York north almost across the U.S./Canadian border to its outlet at the Richelieu River in Quebec. From there, the water joins the St. Lawrence River, which eventually drains into the Atlantic Ocean at the Gulf of St. Lawrence.
Greatest width: 12 miles
Greatest lake depth: 400 feet. The waters of Lake Champlain reach their greatest depth in the area between Charlotte, Vermont and Essex, New York.
Lake area: 435 sq. miles
Average volume of water: 6.8 quadrillion gallons
Average annual precipitation: More than 50 in. in the mountains and 30 in. near the lake or in valleys.
Growing season: 150 days near the lake and 105 days in higher elevations.